Saturday 24 December 2011

Elf spotted at Diamond Falls!!!

I woke to a sunny christmas morning and ran down stairs to see if Santa had left anything under the tree. Woohoo, a Sterling Evolution 9.8 Sharma signature edition, Simon Carter's  World Climbing book and his latest calendar to keep track of all my sends. After a good christmas breakfast Wendy and I headed up to Diamond Falls hoping to find some good conditions.






The conditions were rubbish but what we did find was much more exciting! As we reached the main wall we were blown away to see one of Santa's Elfs hiking his way up Hairline '28'. I only just had enough time to grab my camera out of my bag and snap off a couple of shots before he crushed the route in style.




Santa's little helpers choose Red Chili Corona VCR's!!




 He yelled out "What a classic and a merry christmas to you all" before taking off with his belaying Reindeer. The identity of the Elf or the Reindeer could not be confirmed except that it wasn't Rudohlf as it didn't have a red nose, but was most likely Prancer by the way that he took off.


I hope everyone has had a good christmas and wishing you all a wonderful new year!!

Andy

Tuesday 20 December 2011

The honey moon is over..... Zac Vertrees tells all

Victoria the place to be?....I have traded the much loved peppermint cottage in the sleepy town of Mitre for the hustle and bustle of Natimuk, taking  up residency in the pink palace smack bang in the center of town. Somalia is still dishing out a good hard spanking with feelings of dejection I decided to keep spirits high by roaming some more obscure areas in the Gramps, Scoop Rocks where I climbed the HB mega classic the Honey Moon Is Over a grade  27 finger crack with the infamous vagina move if you haven't done it I highly recommend it although its wise to tape up your digits as its a bit of a bone crusher. Then we checked out the tower where I choked at a gallant onsight attempt of the overhanging Super Gadget, a bettter version of Monkey Puzzle really. Back at Araps I climbed a old Chris Shephard project  on back wall of the pharos that was equipped in the dark ages it combines all the best bits of the back wall girdling through all the classics lets call it a link up! Treat Them Mean Keep em Keen 29 its really a must do.
 
The rest of my time at araps was spent sniffing flowers on a plethora of moderate gems until I dragged my trusty belay partner up to the bluffs to dog around on Sean Myles project this compression session has 17 brutal sequential movements that must rank as the most enjoyable moves  I have come across in my 16 years climbing I can froth all day about this one, I will be back with a little more power endurance up my
sleeve.








I then hooked up with home boy Rosie Cotton, and Jules for some climbing in the southern Gramps, staying at Buandik for one week Rosie, and I tramped the cultivation creek on a not so restful restday finding oodles of cool shit to do. But our main objective was to sample the amazing cave formations of Muline, I had a blast gazing up looking at endless futuristic lines of potential possibilities gobsmacking. One week was spent here climbing as many of Mulines classics as possible with occasional detour up some bushy gullies looking at three star sand stone.
Zac
  Treat Them Mean Keep em Keen 29 photo Max Farr


Sunday 11 December 2011

Climbing Coolum Style with Andy Richardson

JJ putting on a show for the crowd on Evil Wears No Pants
With white beaches, blue seas, good cafes and a big cave Coolum sounded like the perfect place for a quick getaway from work. The beach in the morning then climbing in the afternoon, it doesn't get much better than that. I had seen pictures of the cave with it's crazy looking features and couldn't wait to pull on. I knew that knee bar pads were essential, and there was a really good local scene, but even my wildest dreams would not of prepared me for the style of climbing that I was in for.



As I walked up to the crag it was buzzing with the noise of climbers and as I arrived the first person I saw was none other than Expedition Equipment team mate and the God Father of Coolum climbing JJ Obrien. Full of psyche JJ rolled out the red carpet, gave me the crag tour (i really didn't need to print off the guide) and I was tied in.

Crazy pinches and wild horn like features throw up endless sequences with every hold having at least 10 ways that you can hold it. Then theres the knee bars,  toe hooks and bum scums and......your head is spinning in this 3D kaleidoscope wonderland of holds.


Wild features, awesome holds, great moves and 3 STARS! "Spoonman 28"

My second route at the crag was Screaming Insanity 26, i was lost in a sea of slopey pinches and getting insanely pumped. I reached the anchors ready to slump on the rope only to hear JJ's chirpy voice yell "Play on!" Above me was another few bolts, the extension called Wholly Calamity, ahh how could i say NO.  I made to the second last hold but failed to reach the last and sailed through the air with a pump that i am sure lasted for 5 days.

I spent the week getting schooled on knee bars, hanging on the rope, getting frustrated with working out how to hold every hold, hanging on the rope, getting excited in all the ways you can hold every hold, cutting my knees, fore arms, chest, back or anywhere i could get friction on some crazy feature and some times even got to the top of a route. I met a psyched bunch of locals, like Ian and Max who greeted us with friendly smiles almost everyday as they would be working the moves on their projects.

Pumped, sweaty and all cut up after i used every trick in the book to onsight "La Cucaracha Airhorns 25"
Eventually I de-pumped, learnt how to climb Coolum style and sent some cool routes.
And a BIG thanks to JJ for, well, just being JJ. Go there for a climb and you'll see what i mean.

Sunday 4 December 2011

Arapiles Bouldering Simon Weill gives us the lowdown

Yup, you read the title correctly, I went to Arapiles and bouldered. Not just on the usual stuff either. Along with the Big Al, I went and did a couple of FAs up at Bushranger's Bluff. Al had done a couple of new lines during the week and was keen to show em off and I was more than keen to check em out. So, in between, not catching trout in the Nati lake with Wayno and drinking copious amounts of coffee in the Nat cafe with everyone, we sauntered out and did some crushing. I repeated Al's problems Judge Mental and the Lone Deranger both about V8 and awesome before adding a new V10, called The Vortex. Tops start to the weekend. I also tried the Overtaker on the back of Castle Crag, which is a 31 of Nick Sutter's. Somehow, with an Arctic wind blowing in I was unable to bust it out to the top after punching through the crux on a couple of occasions, mostly because I couldn't feel my hands. It was unbelievably cold, hard to believe it is Summer. Anyway, it will go down next visit for sure, which will have to wait for next year now though as I am off to Europe next week. Will keep y'all posted.
Simon
The Vortex

Monday 28 November 2011

Andy Richardson at Coolum Cave QLD.

I don't know what dragged Andy Richardson away from his usual haunts in the Blue Mountains of NSW, but we are always psyched to see some hard climbing talent at the cave.
Andy confesses the trip was as much about the beach as it was the cave. I don't know about that, I don't see a sun tan.
Warm up time - Andy onsites the very tricky "Yoink" 24
It's deceptively steep and pumpy.
Next it's "Crazy Horny" 25 onsite, and he cheeses it up for the camera.

Andy rates the Cave "pretty cool" and makes reference to "slopey, kneebarry weirdness"
I think that sums it up nicely.
Not beaten yet he gets to work on the Gareth Llewellyn trench warfare route "Weapon of Choice" 27 (originally 28 deservedly so)
Did I mention he slipped off the final hold of the pump classic "Wholly Calamity" on his first shot? First shot, that's strong.

 Below the crux on Weapon. Andy sports the Wild Country "Spray T-shirt"


Gear list
Harness: Wild Country Ultra lite elite
Shoes: Red Chili Matador of course.





 
I left as the sun was setting but Andy slammed it one more time. Not being able to get all the kneebars he reports just hanging on. Yeah, just hanging on, simple.
"Weapon of Choice" in a day.



It's just a day at the beach for Andy.

Photo Lee Cujes
Andy Richardson NSW and jjobrien QLD - climbing for Wild Country, Red Chili and Expedition Equipment

Story and pictures jjobrien.

Carlie in the Franken



Rob and I coached the Australian Youth team again this year and we headed off to Austria in August for the world titles. The comp was great fun and the team did well. The Austrians crushed it! After the comp, it was onto the Frankenjura, we couldn’t wait. We had a whole month of climbing in the Jura! and most of the team stayed on with us for a week or so to take on the pockets. The first couple of days we had 12 people staying in our little 3 bed room apartment, and the positive energy was really fun with everyone so psyched to climb.

The first few days were hard, those pocket smashed us and it took a bit to get strong on them. One week in, it was time to step it up and Grune Holle was the spot! I ticked Vogeln Verboten 9+ (28), that would have to be one of the best routes I did on the whole trip, really cool! and the style I like to climb, Nowra style. This start was great and the training had paid off!
My next favorite day on the Jura stone was ACTION DIRECTE’S BIRTHDAY, the 14th of September. 20 years ago, Wolfgang Gullich did the first ascent of Action and we had to be there on that day to celebrate the send. We were the only ones there, but we partied, for Wolfgang in true climbing style. I was trying Slimline 10- (30), which is like a mini Action. It felt really good, so I came back a few days later keen and confident for the redpoint. Unfortunately, I hurt my finger on a redpoint go and then that was my hard climbing done for the trip! I could still climb up to about 26 before it would hurt, so I ticked tonnes of classics. Every day was a new crag, new warm-ups and plenty of good times. It’s so nice when every route you do is a gem! But one day, I’ll have to go back to Slimline......

If you go to the Frankenjura and get busted up, head to Berlin, I had my 30th birthday with Rob, which was so amazing and lots of fun, thanks Rob for a great birthday! The finger in on the mend and back to training in the gym, I have even started going to the Blue Mountains to climb..... see you next year Slimline!
Carlie

Thursday 17 November 2011

After work with Matt Adams

Sushi Train V8 PHOTO Nick Fletcher
With not being able to touch rock due to work commitments in the US for what has seemed months I busted out to Crumblies to take advantage of the longer day light hours. Absolutely keen as mustard to take on some Sydney classics the pads were packed in the car and I made a bee line for the crag as soon as the whistle was blown in the office! What I didn't realize from the air conditioned comfort of the office that it was 30+ outside and the humidity was hitting 1000%, too late now I was committed. 

Warming up on the juggy V5 I did feel that this crag had seen better days for conditions. Only if there was a bit of wind. Enough excuses time to work the classic Mushi Brain. Ok all the moves sorted and feeling in the bag, but how wrong things go when the rock turns to soap, you thrash about and rip a hole in your finger for just trying to hang on too hard. Got the end sorted for the cameras! Thanks Nick for the picture....

Next time Matt

Tuesday 15 November 2011

Kicking It Ol Skool... with Simon Weill

The weekend was a blast. Most of the old crew was present and accounted for. Those absent were sadly missed. Much beer, much laughter and a touch of crushing. What else do you need? Thanks to all for making it a fab event out at Arnie Acres.

Totally forgot to take any pics on Saturday night, but did manage to get Julesy to take a couple of myself crushing a new line at Man Hands. The Sound Of One Manhand Clapping is probably the hardest of the lines there and is around the V11 mark again. 
Arnie

Saturday 12 November 2011

Claire hits the bouldering meca, Fontainebleau

CLAIRE LANGMORE FONTAINEBLEAU FRANCE
Three weeks in bouldering heaven, Fontainebleau!

In September, I was fortunate enough to spend three weeks bouldering in Fontainebleau, France. It was my first time in Europe and my first time in Font. Before heading off, I was warned to prepare myself for mantles and slopers, and, yes, these warnings were correct. My first couple of days, I spent slapping around on the top of boulders, not trusting my feet and wondering how on earth I was to hold on to these so called holds and actually top out. After a couple of desperate ascents, I finally got the hang of trusting the tiny slippery footholds and getting my mantle on! I bouldered nearly every day of the first week and probably climbed the most problems I have ever climbed in such a short period of time. I loved moving around the forests, finding cool problems and hopping on them. I loved not having a guide book or knowing what the grades of the problems were and just enjoying the problems for what they were rather then the grade. And that is what Font is all about!


My mornings would start with a fresh croissant from the local bakery, followed by a day filled with bouldering and fresh baguettes. Evenings were spent in our Gite enjoying cheese and biscuits, drinks and yahtzee. One can’t complain about that.



I was fortunate enough to spend some of my time bouldering in Font with Finnish boulderer, Nalle. It was amazing to learn from him, and he was able to give us some local beta. Font is definitely on the cards for another trip, I can’t wait to get back there! I am back in Sydney now and planning my next trip… not sure where it will be yet!
Claire

It's been a Bungonia-athon with Andy R

Bungonia Gorge is only a few hours south of Sydney, has 300 meter high wall's and is the only limestone climbing we have anywhere close to us. I have been there a few times over the last 10 or 11 years and loved it every time i went, wether it was a long all day epic or single pitch sport climbing. But for some reason or another i had not managed to get myself there at all in the last 2 years. I tried twice last year, one time a friend flew up from Tassie only for us to have torrential rain and the other time i drove the whole way to the park only to find the gates closed for feral animal eradication.

This year i just had to "make it happen" so last month i teamed up with Tom, Ben and Jay, 3 psyched friends I train at Penrith with, along with Lee, Amanda, Gazza and Gordo for some good fun and great climbing. Although the summer temperatures were warming up that didn't slow us down. I got into the swing of things by doing a classic old trad route that i had always wanted to do called " Strangeness and Charm". We climbed the routes on the awesome "Chicken Wall" while constantly gazing up at the huge expanse of wall above that is just waiting to be climbed.


I then got onto work on a short powerful line named "Nails" 29,on awesomely hard polished rock that i had always wanted to try. The moves were great and i pleasantly surprised myself by sending second shot.

It was then back onto the black rock of the North Wall and have a shot of Masters of the Universe 19,23,26/7,23. What a cracker, i missed the onsight of the crux pitch but haven't had as much fun as fighting for it in a long time. The moves were hard, the feet were insecure, there is no chalk so finding the holds is desperate and the crux sequence ended up being completely sick!!!!

I was then drawn back to the short steep "palenta pumper" sector and established the shortest route in the gorge. What it lacks in height it makes up in moves, every hold is great and every move is rad!! 4 bolts of fun and you at the anchor. I think it ways in about 28 so maybe someone could go and repeat it and confirm the grade, it comes with a 3star guarantee!!!




I then did my part for the community and replaced the rusty old bolts and home made hanger on the classic "Saraha's route 24" with some bomber FIXE stainless steel ones.

However all good things must come to an end and besides a real cold overcast summer day it really is season over for the gorge, so it's back to dreaming about the water polished grey rock of Polenta pumper and Gasoline Alley, the tufa's of The Phantom menace wall, the orange caves high up on The South wall, the intimidating black face of The North wall and the giant over hanging yellow Chicken wall. Until next year.

Andy

Tuesday 8 November 2011

Matt in Seattle

As it heats up in Australia, I decided a quick trip to the US was in order. Nah not really all work with Outdoor Research, but what I  did find while I was here in Seattle was this awesome indoor boulder gym, the Seattle Bouldering Project. It claims to be the biggest bouldering gym in the world and maybe it is! Seattle know for its coffee and raining cold weather, it maybe will be known as the biggest indoor bouldering venue on the planet.... if you are the North West one raining day check it out! 
Matt 

Sunday 23 October 2011

Jackpot!!!


                                            Manhandled V11, Cave of man hands

It's not often that you visit an area that you have discovered and find it to be better than you remembered. In fact, it has never happened before to me. Usually I'll talk up an area until my unwitting sidekicks are expecting the next Andersens or Taipan wall only to discover that it is merely one boulder, moss covered and no more than 6 feet tall... Luckily in this instance there was independent confirmation as to the quality of the venue before we re-visited, although it was still with some trepidation that Ross Taylor and I slowly made our way up to "The cave of man-hands", as it is now known. I was amazed, bigger, longer, steeper and better rock, why the hell had I waited a year to revisit? We quickly got down to business and had an amazing day, aside from Ross trying to kill himself with a dislodged kettle-bell sized piece of rock. A bunch of easier problems, up to about V9 on all angles fell rapidly, before I turned my attention to one of the obvious ribs that meandered out through the roof to a rounded top. Manhandled, V11 was the result and it was amazing. It has everything, some small crimps, some big spans and some all out grunting squeezes. And, to make things even better, there is more to go... Back there this weekend, so will keep you posted. Laters...

Friday 14 October 2011

Indian Summer in Font

When the forces of destiny conspired that I would spend three autumnal weeks in Fontainebleau I knew it wouldn’t be the sub-zero perfection that I had on my last trip there over three years ago. However, being a man of numbers, average temperatures around 16 to 18 didn’t sound too bad. By definition of an average, for every warmer day there would hopefully be a cooler one in which the mythical friction would emerge in all its Velcro-like glory to allow some respectable ascents which I would report herein with barely concealed pride.
L'homme a la Dent Creuse 7B

What I did not expect was a fortnight long record-breaking heat wave that saw my designs of Bleau mastery melt away like dropped ice cream on the footpath. After drying my tears I realised there were only two things to do: 1) get tactical with early morning and late evening sessions on shady boulders with holds that I could bend to my will despite a total lack of friction, and 2) make the most of exploring the surrounding area with my lass.
La Coccinelle 7C+ 
Tactic 1 got me up a handful blocs up to 7C+ish, and tactic 2 revealed a whole world of places, sights, tastes and experiences I never would have had if I’d been on a single minded “climb-or-else” trip. So although my best laid plans went astray, it was a good lesson in accepting what you can’t change and making the most of what you can.

Monday 3 October 2011

Quartzite Goodness!!

ZAC VERTREES WARMING UP ON PUNKS IN THE GYM 32 photo SMITTEN
Migrating down south for spring...I'm currently residing in a small peppermint cottage in the sleepy town of Mitre with one long standing project on my mind, the mighty Somalia! This line blasts up the front wall of the Pharos at Araps and has stood the test of time. Conceived by pom Nick White  and bolted over a quarter of century ago.The orientation of this line aids the desperate nature of the climb as it is facing south east  and bakes from sun up to sun set, so those slick bum's become well lubricated with midday sun making crux 1, a digit mono almost impossible to grasp. So these gorgeous sunny spring days that we are currently experiencing are doing little to help my confidence when it comes to fronting the wall of the Pharos for a hack at a mega classic long standing project that seems to have become unfashionable over the years. A mono fetish is recommended, but remember you must set your heart to the controls of the sun, or just come for a tan. To brake up the monotony of the siege I have been taking the odd field trip to the best stone on the planet, the Grampians, exploring new areas with the local hard man HB Malcolm Matheson down in The Lost World. It is one of the Gramps undiscovered gems with several three star routes on offer and touted as having some of the best pitches in the country.  My pick of the litter being a Space Odyssey and what a journey it is with two exciting pitches of 26 & 27 the latter being remnant of a wrestling match up the underside of a ships prow that feels well above the tree line.
I'll keep you posted on the progress, Zac.

Sunday 2 October 2011

Tom et je Ris - sent

Hello from France!
Hello from France! PHOTO SIMON CARTER
I did it! The route of my dreams, Tom et je Ris. It was a fight to the very end. In the high crux I was certain that I was off. I even screamed out, Noooo, as I came up short with my left hand. I dug deep; slammed a right heel against the tufa, managed a quick shake for my left hand only and then I just kept to my sequence and kept going through the motions, screaming with each move. To my amazement I arrived at the last cave and took a very long rest.
PHOTO SIMON CARTER
So needless to say that I am on cloud nine, I have achieved something that I have been dreaming about for several years now. It almost feels unreal. 
Monique

Thursday 29 September 2011

Progress

INCA STEPPA
DAVE'S TRAVERSE
I feel as if I have had a big win this week. Rehab is going well, I managed not to twang a hamstring for a whole week and I have done some hard moves for the first time in ages. Chamon! I managed to repeat Fabio's Route 29, 2nd shot, on top rope I must admit, as I am not allowed to fall as yet, but pleasing nonetheless, especially since I haven't climbed on a cord in months and months. Also, managed the second ascent of Inca Steppa, a new problem of Big Al's on a huge bloc near Zeus in the Northern Grampians. Al gave this puppy V9, but I strongly suggest 10, as does the Raven, who couldn't really do the moves and yet 10 minutes later cruised Butcher's Choice... Also have managed a host of other problems and some very close attempts. Hopefully will do Forced Entry direct tomorrow and have found a new project, that is not too far away I don't think... This will be pretty stiff I think, maybe 12, but we'll see. Booked a 6 week trip to Europe for Xmas, so just focusing on training for that and staying injury free, hopefully will get around a month in Switzerland, but we'll see... Later Arnie.

Tuesday 27 September 2011

Herkules 9/9+

In October 1992, as a younger climber, I ventured to Nuremberg for my first experience of World Cup competition. After being crushed at the competition, I was offered the chance to climb for a few days in the Frankenjura before I had to head back to France and rejoin my friends. My memories of those days are indistinct. I remember being smashed by just about everything I got on.One enduring memory was of the route that got away. Sebastian, a friend I'd met in Australia the previous year, took me to a crag called Barenschlutwande. There I tried Herkules. On my onsight try I remember being perched on the lip of the roof, having two small pockets, sitting on my leg and just having to push up to get to easy climbing and the anchors. But I had nothing. And after what seemed like an eternity of squeezing and pushing and going nowhere, I fell and didn't get the ascent. 

19 Years Later....It has a nice Harry Potter-esque ring to it.

HERKULES 9/9+
September 2011, I can't quite remember why I didn't tick Herkules after being so so close on my first attempt all those years ago. I can't even remember if I tried it again that day. But I do know that it created a very strong memory for me. Perfect steep pocket climbing out an amazing limestone wave. Whenever I thought of the Franken, I thought of Herkules and hoped one day to get back and climb it.
Carlie and I headed to the Franken after coaching the Australian Team at the World Youth Championships in Imst, Austria. With enthusiasm inspired by watching teenagers bouncing up the wall, we climbed at many of the classics crags and on many of the classic routes. About three weeks into out trip there were 5 members of Team Australia left; us, Daniel, Lucy and Joe (who'd  been a later addition to the crew). We had a day in Munich watching Round 2 of the European Youth Boulder Series while the rain pounded down and next day we were a bit surprised to see sun. We decided to go to Barenschlutwande because it looked like it would dry quickly. So, it was time for me to settle an old score.
I felt good after 3 days of rest waiting out the rain. My arms had been giving me some grief, battling the tendosis that had plagued me in the 12 months leading up to the trip.
After some classic warm-ups, I got on Herkules. I felt quite nervous, I really wanted to do it and I'd been building it up in my head for the past 19 years. I felt the pressure I put on myself from having done well onsight back then. Surely I'd learned a trick or two in the ensuing years and I'd fire through effortlessly on my first attempt. Unfortunately, we never quite climb as good in reality as we do in fantasy.
First go I fell off the big jump move. I was a bit hesitant and didn't go for it. It was that old problem of having some prior knowledge and then coming across something I didn't expect. I pulled on, did the jump and hiked to the top. While it would have been sweet for the fantasy to come true, it was good to get this first go over and be able to relax and enjoy the route.
Second go I did the jump but then forgot my sequence after that and got mixed up. I was a bit frustrated and cranky with myself for letting my nerves get the better of me.
Third go I nailed every section and it felt all so easy and beautiful. The right way to do a really special route. 
Rob 

Monday 26 September 2011

Tom et je Ris

Bonjour! Monique here. I am in Verdon Gorge in France to try and climb my long term goal, Tom et je Ris (8b+, 32). I first heard about this route through Toni Lamprecht (from Germany) when we were in Madagascar in 2007. Toni and I were talking about amazing lines around the world and then he mentioned this route. He described Tom et je Ris (aka T&J) as a 60-metre tufa of impeccable quality and beauty, proudly situated looking down into the Verdon Gorge. With his recommendation in mind I went to check it out for myself. I first visited Verdon in 2009 straight off the back of our Kalymnos trip (with baby Coco only six months old). I was lucky enough to try the route for a day, but unlucky enough to have the heavens open up and we had to leave.
So here I am two years later, attempting the route of my dreams.
OMG, the exposure is overwhelming, the first time you lower in to the route is an intimidating experience to say the least, but you do get used to it. As for the route, well, I am in heaven and hell at the same time. It’s for sure the best line that I have ever been lucky enough to try. T&J tackles one main orange tufa for most of the route but actually swaps and changes between three other tufa’s, making for an extraordinary ride. On the flip side you have to contend with a long walk in (1 hour 20mins), super-long scary run-outs, aggressive holds, loss of visuals with your belayer and a limited climbing window (sun at 2pm). But the ride is all worth it. I have so far managed to work out all of the moves but I don’t know if I can piece it all together...I’ll keep you posted.

Friday 23 September 2011

Matador!

Oh My God! Where have you been all my life. Crazy profile, high performance, racey design. The Matadors, not my car. There's a new way to climb, grab the crag with your toes and drag the whole thing closer to you. I guess you boulderers knew that all the time huh. The pulling power on these things is insane. More than my little red Getz, for sure. The toe down angle is so wild it's borderline cheating. After one quick lap today, I can tell that once I learn how to drive these things it's going open up steeper possibilities.


This could be the start of something special jj

Wednesday 21 September 2011

Frankenjura Update.....

GEIERBLICK 8+ (24) BARNSCHLUTWANDE

Rob finds himself back at the same crag after 17 years... full story to come soon!

Monday 19 September 2011

I just need a friend

A late text last night, my climbing partner for the next day had come home to broken water pipes so he was out for the following days climbing. A few texts went out hoping for any other starters, but being so late and a Sunday night I was out of luck. What to do now? After a few months off I was FROTHING to get out on the rock, what options did I have? I could go bouldering...I love bouldering but was really wanting to do some longer less intense stuff. I could go bolting...now thats always fun, but I didn't have anything in mind that I wanted to bolt, I could  go and look at a few things but it sounds like more of a mission than actually getting anything done. Or i could go rope soloing, I could get my rack for that sorted quickly, I could think of some routes I would like to check out, a quick scan of the guide book and I was sorted.
Sublime point was the choice, a quite crag, great views a quick walk in to the base. The plan was, a few single pitch routes at the start of the crag then head down to the far end of the crag and climb out via a 120meter five pitch route, sounds great!!
So what are the pro's and con's to climbing on your own?

Going solo
Pro - You don't have to wait for anyone.
Con - You don't have any mates, that's why your going solo

The belay
Pro - There's no one to give you a bad belay.
Con - You quite often give yourself a bad belay.

The pitches
Pro - You get to lead all the good pitches.
Con - You have to lead all the scary pitches .

Photo's
Pro - You don't have to waste time taking photo's of your mate so he can spray about it on his blog.
Con - You don't have anyone to take your photo, damn it.

Coffee
Pro - Its a cheap shout at the cafe as you don't have anyone else to buy for.
Con - You don't have anyone to hang at the cafe with cause you don't have any mates, remember that's why you've gone solo. Doh

It was an early start, the weather was great and the climbing was really good. Four long sports routes , all in the 20-23 range got the day going. It was then along to do Smack My Pitch, grade 20 and five pitches of fun. The bonus with the multi pitch is that once you've led each pitch, you rap it then re-climb it to clean it, making your 5 pitch route 10 pitches of climbing!! By 1pm I had done about 340meters of climbing and was off to Katoomba for a good strong coffee, i just didn't have anyone to hang with!
A PIC FROM A RPOE SOLO I DID IN THE GROSE A FEW YEARS BACK  HONESTLY THAT IS MY SHADOW... ANDY

Here comes Summer

You know it's almost Summer in Queensland when:
Big fat Pythons hang out with you at the crag.
Nice taste in shoes.
jj

Friday 16 September 2011

Back in action, AGAIN!

"The last few months have been more about riding and running for months I've been sidelined with a shoulder injury! Well, technically it is an injury, but I would like to think of it as a Body Regeneration Period or BRP. They happen once or twice a year generally, as I'm pushing my body that little bit too far, the warning signs are there, but I'm just not listening. A tendon or muscle will sacrifice itself, tear or explode, so the rest of the body can recover and recuperate while I'm forced to rest. A rotator cuff tendon with a 7-8mm tear was the issue this time and the possibility of surgery and a short 12 months off was somewhat alarming, but thanks to Rob my physio and thousands of theraband and weight exercises, I've seem to have avoided the knife and am climbing again!
After 3 months off, a sunny day bouldering at the Balkans with the Sydney Expedition crew was the perfect way to get back onto the rock again.

Hopefully the weather is good again this weekend, the crag is calling!"
Andy

Wednesday 14 September 2011

Fathers day at Frontline

MATT ADAMS
SCOTT WALTER
ANDY RICHARDSON
The sun was out and the Expedition Equipment Sydney crew got together for a boulder at the Balkans. The scene at the crag resembled more of a crèche than a climbing venue, but good fun was had by all and despite the warm temps the conditions on the rock weren’t all that bad.....
Photos from Nick Fletcher Photography

The Frankenjura Update

Some great shots from Red Chili climbers Rob & Carlie LeBreton who are currently crushing in the Frankenjura, more to come......