Wednesday 25 April 2012

Thy season beginneth

Just like Punxsutawny Phil, the Sydney groundhog has been a little shy about declaring summer to be over for the year. but the odd cool dry day has brought the boulderers out of hibernation. 


After a summer of trying to distract myself with surfing (let's just say I'm not a natural) it's nice to get back on to the blocs. A brief trip to Arnie's Acres and the Gramps was a great way to get the pistons firing on some fine-grained Victorian sandstone. As the man himself relays below, some classy first ascents were dug out from underneath the lichen near Wallaby rocks, along with some repeats of the quality steepness at the Cave of Man Hands (see topo in Vertical Life edition 1), the most notable of which was Dos Manos: an almost hroizontal 15-ish move gem with a gaston crux.

Around Sydney town I have been easing into things with ticks of a few obscure problems around the 8-9 mark including a sneaky ascent of this unnamed 9 at Jessicas between attempts on the slightly harder problem to it's right.

In other happenings, after much trigonometry and deliberation I have built a new board. It is nigh on 4m high complete with 6:1 pulley system to change the angle and can be set between 36 and 65 degrees. It is steadily being populated with hand-crafted desperately slippery holds including a collection of bespoke grips created and kindly donated by the folks at Beastmaker.

The new board

New holds in progress

All that's left to do now is put in a ridiculous number of hours of training on this thing then tick all my projects. 

  

Sunday 22 April 2012

La Cuerda



Underclinging through the 8th dimension
Well Easter has come and gone and it's back to the grindstone this week, but what a fabulous break it was. Scootsy came to visit for a week and the old partnership was back to its best in no time. Random calculations, epic table tennis matches and a spot of drinking seemed to be the norm for the trip. Oh, and I almost forgot, a little bouldering thrown in for good measure. We visited a few new areas, including Bundaleer and a place called Wallaby Rocks. Both good in their own way, but neither enough to sustain a proper Weill style assault, that is, returning week after week until all of the good lines are done. We did manage to eek out some lovely first ascents, especially the horizontal fridge slapping gem, Kick Ass, named in honour of the film that we had watched the night before. Classic, by the way. I added a sweet problem up a classic feature at Bundaleer, Underclinging through the eighth dimension, V10ish, starts with a pair of low undercuts and involves a couple of powerful slaps with the left hand before catching a wild tag with the right hand off a smeary footer. Good line, sandy crag, probably not a must visit.
Kick Ass
We had a day at the newly famous Cave of Man Hands where Scoots managed the second ascent of Dos Manos. A good effort by the number crunching desk jockey I must admit. I was worried that he was going to find some easy way to do all of my problems, but thankfully there was to be no ruining of Sound of One Man Hand Clapping. The cut loose move kept the lad honest, especially after he proclaimed that he had it sorted...

Scootsy on a new V7 at Wallaby Rocks
We managed a visit to Nati on Easter Saturday in time to catch Goatfest. I had entered a video that I had shot and edited on a whim. I had no real expectations, which was lucky, because we ended up not being able to get in, instead passing most of the fest in the pub, getting gently pickled. A message alerted us to the fact that the films were done and it was time to head back to catch up with some friends, but as we entered they were announcing the winners. I was absolutely shocked to hear my name called out, Dead Heat had taken out the Judges award and the Audience award. Next thing I knew I was up on stage receiving an award and being asked to make a speech. Now, all who know me, know that I love to be the centre of attention and having two hundred people hanging on every word I say is like nirvana for me. Unfortunately, the days climbing and a dozen beers put paid to any Ricky Gervais style acceptance speech. I was almost speechless and have been kicking myself ever since. What if I said...


So, anyway, I got to do a heap of bouldering but also continued on with some corded work as well. I had two days down south to finish up my break and managed to actually tick a couple of things. I did Demon Flower at Muline, 30, and almost did Wild Orchid, also 30 on the same day, falling on the last move, but this will definitely go down next visit. I also did Chasing the Shadow at the Gallery, 27. Not a super hard route, but one that I had tried earlier this season, failing on the final section. Clearly my fitness is improving, as I was able to shake out where I fell previously. I was unaccountably chuffed with this send, but safe to say, climbing on a rope has been loads of fun, not something I have done much of in the last few years.

Thursday 19 April 2012

Down, But Not Out!!!

It's not the post that I was hoping to write and it's certainly not the way I was hoping to spend the season. The weather looked so good in Spain and I was a click of the mouse away from booking a flight, instead I booked in with the surgeon for some repairs on my shoulder that just couldn't wait any longer.

Relaxing in my hospital bed just after my opp

Surgeries can never come with a 100% guarantee so I feel quite lucky to have "Rob Standen" from Penrith Sports Physio on my side. Rob has been looking after me for longer than I can remember and he put me in contact with a great sports doctor, who then got me in contact an excellent shoulder surgeon who looks after a lot of professional and olympic athletes. This sort of support is something that I really appreciate and could not put a price on as it makes me feel completely relaxed and confident that I was in the best possible hands.


After spending too much time inside and watching lots of climbing DVD's (The Real Thing many times), I just had to walk down to the local crag to look at and touch real rock. Thats what I call "Therapy"!

After what I could only describe as the best possible hospital stay and a week or so of recovery at home, things are feeling good. It's a long long way back, there won't be any climbing for at least 6 months and quite possibly longer. But it's not the end of the world, a few months and a few thousand Theraband exercises and i'll be back before you know it!


Andy

Wednesday 11 April 2012

Getting back to business....

Autumn is my favourite time of the year because it marks the start of the Sydney bouldering season. Thankfully, the rain has stopped and it’s time to hit the blocs! I’m especially excited because it’s been four months since I’ve been out on rock. You see, the past two summers have been written off by wrist injuries, the right was the first to go in 2010, closely followed by the left one last year. In retrospect, the two-month forced rest each year has been a blessing in disguise. The time off has allowed my body and mind to recuperate, ready for more punishment come winter.

This accidental strategy seems to be working. Last year turned out to be my best bouldering season to date. I sent my hardest problem so far, Steve Austin (V10) at Sissy Crag, along with a host of other great problems in Sydney and the Grampians including String ‘em Up (V9), Black Magic (V8), Butthole Surfer (V9) and Cardigan Street Massacre (V7), just to name a few.
Flying high on Butthole Surfer. Photo: D.Alexander
Now, the 2012 season is upon us and it’s off to a good start. In the past three weeks I’ve completed three Frontline problems on my hit list. The first is the short and thuggy problem Who Killed the Kennedys (V6), dispatched thanks to my friend Lisa’s funky beta, next was the short and awkward Little Budda (V5) that has eluded me until recently, and finally, the ever popular If the Shoe Fits (V8), using the Christina Bedard method. It involves using the small and sharp two-and-a-half finger pocket to the left of the pinch, followed by a big a dynamic move right to the jug. Useful beta if you’re 5-foot nothing like me!
If the Shoe Fits V8. Photo: Nick Fletcher
Next on the cards is a 5-day trip to the Grampians in two weeks where orange sandstone and Cave Man (Cave Girl version) awaits.

-Shay

Tuesday 10 April 2012

Old is New (i'm not a hipster)

G'day there,

I'd just like to start my first post here with a thanks to Expedition Equipment. I'm stoked to be part of the team and hope I can bring something to the table....be it lycra bodysuits, mad background music or at the very least some videos slash photos.

For past few years I've been writing a news/blog bizwhack with some of my best mates over at www.captainsofcrushaustralia.blogspot.com . This of course will continue to be at the forefront of Victorian climbing news, news that involves a select group of individuals with passwords to the account.
If you are unintiated in the ways of the captains blog, then I'll quickly fill you in about my past 8 months.

Went to Rocklands....had a blast....ruptured A4 pulley.....got drunk....NYE at Mt Arapiles......Tassie Trip.....Easter '12. That's about it. (click above link for videos from these events :p )

So as for now and a reference to the post title;

Working as a Paramedic is fun, tiring, a pain in the arse, rewarding and challenging all at the same time. We have some great holidays and work a 2 days/2 nights on and 4 days off roster (generally). This sounds good, however living in Australia's capital for coffee and the 'Weekend Warrior', leaves me walking aimlessly around the streets of Fitzroy looking for belayers on a Wednesday morning. So big plans are taking shape, mainly looking at moving up to Natimuk and working in Horsham, so that my days off are more productive. This idea has also been encouraged by several weekends away climbing at Mt Arapiles, and at the moment I'm very excited at the thought of climbing 4 days a week on rock.

Mt Arapiles; the first place most Victorians realise that gym climbing is just that. I started climbing out there in 2002, leading The Bard, 12 on my second day. Golden fun. Start of the 2012 saw me take a young lass out there to repeat it. It was just as scary, and just as fun. Having spent that last 9 or so years climbing the odd weekend at the Grampians has got me stronger, but not much better on the sometimes slick, vertical, bulgy world that is the Mount. Recently I decided that I would try to build a base of Mt Arapiles routes. Doing 10 of a grade then moving on, so as to really learn how to climb there again. For me time and geography is crucial. Trying to redpoint something at or beyond your limit with a 10 weekend a year game plan is bogus. So all that said, the move to Nati will if all goes to plan make me a more well rounded climber. Of course Grampians kicks arse and I have big plans for down there too.

Getting Lost on the Bard - only kidding


I'll fit right in with the Natimuk locals

Anyway, this weekend just gone was Easter. I had to work some of it, and party another, so had two days to climb. I decided to revisit some classics, and some routes I'd tried some weekend years ago. The weather was awesome with some bitter cold wind.......the season has started for sure. Well I pulled on only a handful of times, but managed to climb Jet Lag and Wagalak both 29 without any dramas. I've also spied a new line that will have some shiny new bolts in it within the next week or so. So psyched.

 Wagalak, 29 - Mt Arapiles. Photo A. Robertson

So for the rest of 2012. Well I had planned to be back in Rocklands this winter, yet this will not be the case. Lack of money and the move to the country will put this one hold. Aside from my Mt Arapiles 10 routes then move on project, I'll be focusing on some of my bolted projects in the Grampians and heading to Nowra in July. There is also talk of heading to Switzerland with Simon and Co (thats his left and right biceps and his ego) to boulder in January.

Cool well until next time.

- Grosey