Monday 28 November 2011

Carlie in the Franken



Rob and I coached the Australian Youth team again this year and we headed off to Austria in August for the world titles. The comp was great fun and the team did well. The Austrians crushed it! After the comp, it was onto the Frankenjura, we couldn’t wait. We had a whole month of climbing in the Jura! and most of the team stayed on with us for a week or so to take on the pockets. The first couple of days we had 12 people staying in our little 3 bed room apartment, and the positive energy was really fun with everyone so psyched to climb.

The first few days were hard, those pocket smashed us and it took a bit to get strong on them. One week in, it was time to step it up and Grune Holle was the spot! I ticked Vogeln Verboten 9+ (28), that would have to be one of the best routes I did on the whole trip, really cool! and the style I like to climb, Nowra style. This start was great and the training had paid off!
My next favorite day on the Jura stone was ACTION DIRECTE’S BIRTHDAY, the 14th of September. 20 years ago, Wolfgang Gullich did the first ascent of Action and we had to be there on that day to celebrate the send. We were the only ones there, but we partied, for Wolfgang in true climbing style. I was trying Slimline 10- (30), which is like a mini Action. It felt really good, so I came back a few days later keen and confident for the redpoint. Unfortunately, I hurt my finger on a redpoint go and then that was my hard climbing done for the trip! I could still climb up to about 26 before it would hurt, so I ticked tonnes of classics. Every day was a new crag, new warm-ups and plenty of good times. It’s so nice when every route you do is a gem! But one day, I’ll have to go back to Slimline......

If you go to the Frankenjura and get busted up, head to Berlin, I had my 30th birthday with Rob, which was so amazing and lots of fun, thanks Rob for a great birthday! The finger in on the mend and back to training in the gym, I have even started going to the Blue Mountains to climb..... see you next year Slimline!
Carlie

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