Monday 28 November 2011

Andy Richardson at Coolum Cave QLD.

I don't know what dragged Andy Richardson away from his usual haunts in the Blue Mountains of NSW, but we are always psyched to see some hard climbing talent at the cave.
Andy confesses the trip was as much about the beach as it was the cave. I don't know about that, I don't see a sun tan.
Warm up time - Andy onsites the very tricky "Yoink" 24
It's deceptively steep and pumpy.
Next it's "Crazy Horny" 25 onsite, and he cheeses it up for the camera.

Andy rates the Cave "pretty cool" and makes reference to "slopey, kneebarry weirdness"
I think that sums it up nicely.
Not beaten yet he gets to work on the Gareth Llewellyn trench warfare route "Weapon of Choice" 27 (originally 28 deservedly so)
Did I mention he slipped off the final hold of the pump classic "Wholly Calamity" on his first shot? First shot, that's strong.

 Below the crux on Weapon. Andy sports the Wild Country "Spray T-shirt"


Gear list
Harness: Wild Country Ultra lite elite
Shoes: Red Chili Matador of course.





 
I left as the sun was setting but Andy slammed it one more time. Not being able to get all the kneebars he reports just hanging on. Yeah, just hanging on, simple.
"Weapon of Choice" in a day.



It's just a day at the beach for Andy.

Photo Lee Cujes
Andy Richardson NSW and jjobrien QLD - climbing for Wild Country, Red Chili and Expedition Equipment

Story and pictures jjobrien.

Carlie in the Franken



Rob and I coached the Australian Youth team again this year and we headed off to Austria in August for the world titles. The comp was great fun and the team did well. The Austrians crushed it! After the comp, it was onto the Frankenjura, we couldn’t wait. We had a whole month of climbing in the Jura! and most of the team stayed on with us for a week or so to take on the pockets. The first couple of days we had 12 people staying in our little 3 bed room apartment, and the positive energy was really fun with everyone so psyched to climb.

The first few days were hard, those pocket smashed us and it took a bit to get strong on them. One week in, it was time to step it up and Grune Holle was the spot! I ticked Vogeln Verboten 9+ (28), that would have to be one of the best routes I did on the whole trip, really cool! and the style I like to climb, Nowra style. This start was great and the training had paid off!
My next favorite day on the Jura stone was ACTION DIRECTE’S BIRTHDAY, the 14th of September. 20 years ago, Wolfgang Gullich did the first ascent of Action and we had to be there on that day to celebrate the send. We were the only ones there, but we partied, for Wolfgang in true climbing style. I was trying Slimline 10- (30), which is like a mini Action. It felt really good, so I came back a few days later keen and confident for the redpoint. Unfortunately, I hurt my finger on a redpoint go and then that was my hard climbing done for the trip! I could still climb up to about 26 before it would hurt, so I ticked tonnes of classics. Every day was a new crag, new warm-ups and plenty of good times. It’s so nice when every route you do is a gem! But one day, I’ll have to go back to Slimline......

If you go to the Frankenjura and get busted up, head to Berlin, I had my 30th birthday with Rob, which was so amazing and lots of fun, thanks Rob for a great birthday! The finger in on the mend and back to training in the gym, I have even started going to the Blue Mountains to climb..... see you next year Slimline!
Carlie

Thursday 17 November 2011

After work with Matt Adams

Sushi Train V8 PHOTO Nick Fletcher
With not being able to touch rock due to work commitments in the US for what has seemed months I busted out to Crumblies to take advantage of the longer day light hours. Absolutely keen as mustard to take on some Sydney classics the pads were packed in the car and I made a bee line for the crag as soon as the whistle was blown in the office! What I didn't realize from the air conditioned comfort of the office that it was 30+ outside and the humidity was hitting 1000%, too late now I was committed. 

Warming up on the juggy V5 I did feel that this crag had seen better days for conditions. Only if there was a bit of wind. Enough excuses time to work the classic Mushi Brain. Ok all the moves sorted and feeling in the bag, but how wrong things go when the rock turns to soap, you thrash about and rip a hole in your finger for just trying to hang on too hard. Got the end sorted for the cameras! Thanks Nick for the picture....

Next time Matt

Tuesday 15 November 2011

Kicking It Ol Skool... with Simon Weill

The weekend was a blast. Most of the old crew was present and accounted for. Those absent were sadly missed. Much beer, much laughter and a touch of crushing. What else do you need? Thanks to all for making it a fab event out at Arnie Acres.

Totally forgot to take any pics on Saturday night, but did manage to get Julesy to take a couple of myself crushing a new line at Man Hands. The Sound Of One Manhand Clapping is probably the hardest of the lines there and is around the V11 mark again. 
Arnie

Saturday 12 November 2011

Claire hits the bouldering meca, Fontainebleau

CLAIRE LANGMORE FONTAINEBLEAU FRANCE
Three weeks in bouldering heaven, Fontainebleau!

In September, I was fortunate enough to spend three weeks bouldering in Fontainebleau, France. It was my first time in Europe and my first time in Font. Before heading off, I was warned to prepare myself for mantles and slopers, and, yes, these warnings were correct. My first couple of days, I spent slapping around on the top of boulders, not trusting my feet and wondering how on earth I was to hold on to these so called holds and actually top out. After a couple of desperate ascents, I finally got the hang of trusting the tiny slippery footholds and getting my mantle on! I bouldered nearly every day of the first week and probably climbed the most problems I have ever climbed in such a short period of time. I loved moving around the forests, finding cool problems and hopping on them. I loved not having a guide book or knowing what the grades of the problems were and just enjoying the problems for what they were rather then the grade. And that is what Font is all about!


My mornings would start with a fresh croissant from the local bakery, followed by a day filled with bouldering and fresh baguettes. Evenings were spent in our Gite enjoying cheese and biscuits, drinks and yahtzee. One can’t complain about that.



I was fortunate enough to spend some of my time bouldering in Font with Finnish boulderer, Nalle. It was amazing to learn from him, and he was able to give us some local beta. Font is definitely on the cards for another trip, I can’t wait to get back there! I am back in Sydney now and planning my next trip… not sure where it will be yet!
Claire

It's been a Bungonia-athon with Andy R

Bungonia Gorge is only a few hours south of Sydney, has 300 meter high wall's and is the only limestone climbing we have anywhere close to us. I have been there a few times over the last 10 or 11 years and loved it every time i went, wether it was a long all day epic or single pitch sport climbing. But for some reason or another i had not managed to get myself there at all in the last 2 years. I tried twice last year, one time a friend flew up from Tassie only for us to have torrential rain and the other time i drove the whole way to the park only to find the gates closed for feral animal eradication.

This year i just had to "make it happen" so last month i teamed up with Tom, Ben and Jay, 3 psyched friends I train at Penrith with, along with Lee, Amanda, Gazza and Gordo for some good fun and great climbing. Although the summer temperatures were warming up that didn't slow us down. I got into the swing of things by doing a classic old trad route that i had always wanted to do called " Strangeness and Charm". We climbed the routes on the awesome "Chicken Wall" while constantly gazing up at the huge expanse of wall above that is just waiting to be climbed.


I then got onto work on a short powerful line named "Nails" 29,on awesomely hard polished rock that i had always wanted to try. The moves were great and i pleasantly surprised myself by sending second shot.

It was then back onto the black rock of the North Wall and have a shot of Masters of the Universe 19,23,26/7,23. What a cracker, i missed the onsight of the crux pitch but haven't had as much fun as fighting for it in a long time. The moves were hard, the feet were insecure, there is no chalk so finding the holds is desperate and the crux sequence ended up being completely sick!!!!

I was then drawn back to the short steep "palenta pumper" sector and established the shortest route in the gorge. What it lacks in height it makes up in moves, every hold is great and every move is rad!! 4 bolts of fun and you at the anchor. I think it ways in about 28 so maybe someone could go and repeat it and confirm the grade, it comes with a 3star guarantee!!!




I then did my part for the community and replaced the rusty old bolts and home made hanger on the classic "Saraha's route 24" with some bomber FIXE stainless steel ones.

However all good things must come to an end and besides a real cold overcast summer day it really is season over for the gorge, so it's back to dreaming about the water polished grey rock of Polenta pumper and Gasoline Alley, the tufa's of The Phantom menace wall, the orange caves high up on The South wall, the intimidating black face of The North wall and the giant over hanging yellow Chicken wall. Until next year.

Andy

Tuesday 8 November 2011

Matt in Seattle

As it heats up in Australia, I decided a quick trip to the US was in order. Nah not really all work with Outdoor Research, but what I  did find while I was here in Seattle was this awesome indoor boulder gym, the Seattle Bouldering Project. It claims to be the biggest bouldering gym in the world and maybe it is! Seattle know for its coffee and raining cold weather, it maybe will be known as the biggest indoor bouldering venue on the planet.... if you are the North West one raining day check it out! 
Matt