Thursday 29 September 2011

Progress

INCA STEPPA
DAVE'S TRAVERSE
I feel as if I have had a big win this week. Rehab is going well, I managed not to twang a hamstring for a whole week and I have done some hard moves for the first time in ages. Chamon! I managed to repeat Fabio's Route 29, 2nd shot, on top rope I must admit, as I am not allowed to fall as yet, but pleasing nonetheless, especially since I haven't climbed on a cord in months and months. Also, managed the second ascent of Inca Steppa, a new problem of Big Al's on a huge bloc near Zeus in the Northern Grampians. Al gave this puppy V9, but I strongly suggest 10, as does the Raven, who couldn't really do the moves and yet 10 minutes later cruised Butcher's Choice... Also have managed a host of other problems and some very close attempts. Hopefully will do Forced Entry direct tomorrow and have found a new project, that is not too far away I don't think... This will be pretty stiff I think, maybe 12, but we'll see. Booked a 6 week trip to Europe for Xmas, so just focusing on training for that and staying injury free, hopefully will get around a month in Switzerland, but we'll see... Later Arnie.

Tuesday 27 September 2011

Herkules 9/9+

In October 1992, as a younger climber, I ventured to Nuremberg for my first experience of World Cup competition. After being crushed at the competition, I was offered the chance to climb for a few days in the Frankenjura before I had to head back to France and rejoin my friends. My memories of those days are indistinct. I remember being smashed by just about everything I got on.One enduring memory was of the route that got away. Sebastian, a friend I'd met in Australia the previous year, took me to a crag called Barenschlutwande. There I tried Herkules. On my onsight try I remember being perched on the lip of the roof, having two small pockets, sitting on my leg and just having to push up to get to easy climbing and the anchors. But I had nothing. And after what seemed like an eternity of squeezing and pushing and going nowhere, I fell and didn't get the ascent. 

19 Years Later....It has a nice Harry Potter-esque ring to it.

HERKULES 9/9+
September 2011, I can't quite remember why I didn't tick Herkules after being so so close on my first attempt all those years ago. I can't even remember if I tried it again that day. But I do know that it created a very strong memory for me. Perfect steep pocket climbing out an amazing limestone wave. Whenever I thought of the Franken, I thought of Herkules and hoped one day to get back and climb it.
Carlie and I headed to the Franken after coaching the Australian Team at the World Youth Championships in Imst, Austria. With enthusiasm inspired by watching teenagers bouncing up the wall, we climbed at many of the classics crags and on many of the classic routes. About three weeks into out trip there were 5 members of Team Australia left; us, Daniel, Lucy and Joe (who'd  been a later addition to the crew). We had a day in Munich watching Round 2 of the European Youth Boulder Series while the rain pounded down and next day we were a bit surprised to see sun. We decided to go to Barenschlutwande because it looked like it would dry quickly. So, it was time for me to settle an old score.
I felt good after 3 days of rest waiting out the rain. My arms had been giving me some grief, battling the tendosis that had plagued me in the 12 months leading up to the trip.
After some classic warm-ups, I got on Herkules. I felt quite nervous, I really wanted to do it and I'd been building it up in my head for the past 19 years. I felt the pressure I put on myself from having done well onsight back then. Surely I'd learned a trick or two in the ensuing years and I'd fire through effortlessly on my first attempt. Unfortunately, we never quite climb as good in reality as we do in fantasy.
First go I fell off the big jump move. I was a bit hesitant and didn't go for it. It was that old problem of having some prior knowledge and then coming across something I didn't expect. I pulled on, did the jump and hiked to the top. While it would have been sweet for the fantasy to come true, it was good to get this first go over and be able to relax and enjoy the route.
Second go I did the jump but then forgot my sequence after that and got mixed up. I was a bit frustrated and cranky with myself for letting my nerves get the better of me.
Third go I nailed every section and it felt all so easy and beautiful. The right way to do a really special route. 
Rob 

Monday 26 September 2011

Tom et je Ris

Bonjour! Monique here. I am in Verdon Gorge in France to try and climb my long term goal, Tom et je Ris (8b+, 32). I first heard about this route through Toni Lamprecht (from Germany) when we were in Madagascar in 2007. Toni and I were talking about amazing lines around the world and then he mentioned this route. He described Tom et je Ris (aka T&J) as a 60-metre tufa of impeccable quality and beauty, proudly situated looking down into the Verdon Gorge. With his recommendation in mind I went to check it out for myself. I first visited Verdon in 2009 straight off the back of our Kalymnos trip (with baby Coco only six months old). I was lucky enough to try the route for a day, but unlucky enough to have the heavens open up and we had to leave.
So here I am two years later, attempting the route of my dreams.
OMG, the exposure is overwhelming, the first time you lower in to the route is an intimidating experience to say the least, but you do get used to it. As for the route, well, I am in heaven and hell at the same time. It’s for sure the best line that I have ever been lucky enough to try. T&J tackles one main orange tufa for most of the route but actually swaps and changes between three other tufa’s, making for an extraordinary ride. On the flip side you have to contend with a long walk in (1 hour 20mins), super-long scary run-outs, aggressive holds, loss of visuals with your belayer and a limited climbing window (sun at 2pm). But the ride is all worth it. I have so far managed to work out all of the moves but I don’t know if I can piece it all together...I’ll keep you posted.

Friday 23 September 2011

Matador!

Oh My God! Where have you been all my life. Crazy profile, high performance, racey design. The Matadors, not my car. There's a new way to climb, grab the crag with your toes and drag the whole thing closer to you. I guess you boulderers knew that all the time huh. The pulling power on these things is insane. More than my little red Getz, for sure. The toe down angle is so wild it's borderline cheating. After one quick lap today, I can tell that once I learn how to drive these things it's going open up steeper possibilities.


This could be the start of something special jj

Wednesday 21 September 2011

Frankenjura Update.....

GEIERBLICK 8+ (24) BARNSCHLUTWANDE

Rob finds himself back at the same crag after 17 years... full story to come soon!

Monday 19 September 2011

I just need a friend

A late text last night, my climbing partner for the next day had come home to broken water pipes so he was out for the following days climbing. A few texts went out hoping for any other starters, but being so late and a Sunday night I was out of luck. What to do now? After a few months off I was FROTHING to get out on the rock, what options did I have? I could go bouldering...I love bouldering but was really wanting to do some longer less intense stuff. I could go bolting...now thats always fun, but I didn't have anything in mind that I wanted to bolt, I could  go and look at a few things but it sounds like more of a mission than actually getting anything done. Or i could go rope soloing, I could get my rack for that sorted quickly, I could think of some routes I would like to check out, a quick scan of the guide book and I was sorted.
Sublime point was the choice, a quite crag, great views a quick walk in to the base. The plan was, a few single pitch routes at the start of the crag then head down to the far end of the crag and climb out via a 120meter five pitch route, sounds great!!
So what are the pro's and con's to climbing on your own?

Going solo
Pro - You don't have to wait for anyone.
Con - You don't have any mates, that's why your going solo

The belay
Pro - There's no one to give you a bad belay.
Con - You quite often give yourself a bad belay.

The pitches
Pro - You get to lead all the good pitches.
Con - You have to lead all the scary pitches .

Photo's
Pro - You don't have to waste time taking photo's of your mate so he can spray about it on his blog.
Con - You don't have anyone to take your photo, damn it.

Coffee
Pro - Its a cheap shout at the cafe as you don't have anyone else to buy for.
Con - You don't have anyone to hang at the cafe with cause you don't have any mates, remember that's why you've gone solo. Doh

It was an early start, the weather was great and the climbing was really good. Four long sports routes , all in the 20-23 range got the day going. It was then along to do Smack My Pitch, grade 20 and five pitches of fun. The bonus with the multi pitch is that once you've led each pitch, you rap it then re-climb it to clean it, making your 5 pitch route 10 pitches of climbing!! By 1pm I had done about 340meters of climbing and was off to Katoomba for a good strong coffee, i just didn't have anyone to hang with!
A PIC FROM A RPOE SOLO I DID IN THE GROSE A FEW YEARS BACK  HONESTLY THAT IS MY SHADOW... ANDY

Here comes Summer

You know it's almost Summer in Queensland when:
Big fat Pythons hang out with you at the crag.
Nice taste in shoes.
jj

Friday 16 September 2011

Back in action, AGAIN!

"The last few months have been more about riding and running for months I've been sidelined with a shoulder injury! Well, technically it is an injury, but I would like to think of it as a Body Regeneration Period or BRP. They happen once or twice a year generally, as I'm pushing my body that little bit too far, the warning signs are there, but I'm just not listening. A tendon or muscle will sacrifice itself, tear or explode, so the rest of the body can recover and recuperate while I'm forced to rest. A rotator cuff tendon with a 7-8mm tear was the issue this time and the possibility of surgery and a short 12 months off was somewhat alarming, but thanks to Rob my physio and thousands of theraband and weight exercises, I've seem to have avoided the knife and am climbing again!
After 3 months off, a sunny day bouldering at the Balkans with the Sydney Expedition crew was the perfect way to get back onto the rock again.

Hopefully the weather is good again this weekend, the crag is calling!"
Andy

Wednesday 14 September 2011

Fathers day at Frontline

MATT ADAMS
SCOTT WALTER
ANDY RICHARDSON
The sun was out and the Expedition Equipment Sydney crew got together for a boulder at the Balkans. The scene at the crag resembled more of a crèche than a climbing venue, but good fun was had by all and despite the warm temps the conditions on the rock weren’t all that bad.....
Photos from Nick Fletcher Photography

The Frankenjura Update

Some great shots from Red Chili climbers Rob & Carlie LeBreton who are currently crushing in the Frankenjura, more to come......

Saturday 10 September 2011

Doing "Evil"

Let me run you through the beta.
On the one side we have "Evil Wears No Pants" a vicious and wicked 30, chiseled over the millennia by  the worst of natures menacing forces up the steepest face of Coolum Cave.
 On the other, me, an aging human. You can see where this is going.

Lee Cujes got behind the camera for my 235th attempt. Here's where we're at: I can get from the ground to the first bolt. I can get from the first bolt to the top. But I'll be bashed with a rack of cams if I can make the link.

Erik Smits on belay.
 That left hander is positive, sort of, but at 70 degrees overhung it just sucks the life outta ya.

 And just to stick it to me, that's a one finger joint undercling at full arms reach to finish it off.

 But then there's the atmosphere. Crazy steep rock, easy access, sea views, good friends, good times.

It ain't over till it's over.


All photos: Lee Cujes     Post pro: jjobrien

jj

Friday 9 September 2011

A Sydney Classic

Mushi Brain is one of the standout problems in Sydney... and the subject of my first attempt at making a video (sorry about the low res).

Thursday 8 September 2011

They tried to make me go to Rehab...


A cool little addition to Andersens


Darkness and the Demon Child V9 FA
The last few months have been challenging to say the least. A knee reco, a finger tendon torn from the bone and primo conditions wasted could easily have led to no training and some serious depression, as well as some nasty ice cream eating habits. Luckily, recovery has been quick and motivation has never been much of an issue for me. Throughout my injury I have been training on my new beastmaker board, situated conveniently in the living room. I haven't done much finger strengthening in the last few years, so it has been a pretty good exercise, I have had some pretty good gains. With holidays coming around in two weeks and the weather improving each day, it should be a pretty good time to get a fair bit done. I have managed to get a few things done, including some new ascents around the place. Thanks to Liam Dickson for these shots from the Grampians.

Red Chili sunrise.

BLACK LEATHER DUNGAREES 26 COOLUM CAVE
It was supposed to be a sunrise photo shoot. The sky looked too light on the drive to the crag.Scott Hailstone, the photographer, and I turn up at Coolum Cave. No belayer. Frantic phone calls. I made my way up the fixed rope to the top of the first pitch, Scott gets in position, the sub belayer turns up. It's on. Not quite what we had in mind but we grabbed a few shots. That's the unmistakable Red Chili Corona VCR showing off to the camera on "Black Leather Dungarees" a surprisingly long and pumpy 26, on the upper routes at Coolum. Thanks Scott Hailstone for the photo.
jjobrien

Wednesday 7 September 2011

Scott Walter off to France!

Scott dropped in before heading off to Fontainebleau to pick up a few pairs shoes for his trip. We all know him from the Red Chili advert in which he is on one of the ultimate classics of the forest, RUBIS SUR L'ONGLE stay tunned for more......

Monday 5 September 2011

Why DMM anodise their metal products!

Check out this! DMM explains the electrochemical process of anodising and takes the viewer on a short, but insightful tour of the colour anodising plant they use in the UK. It highlights the steps taken to reduce any potential environmental impact along the way. Also DMM’s Chief Design Engineer, Fred Hall, points out the benefits of anodising, whilst emphasising the need for equipment to be well maintained especially after sea cliff climbing in warm climates. Enjoy.....