Getting back to business....

Autumn is my favourite time of the year because it marks the start of the Sydney bouldering season. Thankfully, the rain has stopped and it’s time to hit the blocs! I’m especially excited because it’s been four months since I’ve been out on rock. You see, the past two summers have been written off by wrist injuries, the right was the first to go in 2010, closely followed by the left one last year. In retrospect, the two-month forced rest each year has been a blessing in disguise. The time off has allowed my body and mind to recuperate, ready for more punishment come winter.

This accidental strategy seems to be working. Last year turned out to be my best bouldering season to date. I sent my hardest problem so far, Steve Austin (V10) at Sissy Crag, along with a host of other great problems in Sydney and the Grampians including String ‘em Up (V9), Black Magic (V8), Butthole Surfer (V9) and Cardigan Street Massacre (V7), just to name a few.

Flying high on Butthole Surfer. Photo: D.Alexander

Now, the 2012 season is upon us and it’s off to a good start. In the past three weeks I’ve completed three Frontline problems on my hit list. The first is the short and thuggy problem Who Killed the Kennedys (V6), dispatched thanks to my friend Lisa’s funky beta, next was the short and awkward Little Budda (V5) that has eluded me until recently, and finally, the ever popular If the Shoe Fits (V8), using the Christina Bedard method. It involves using the small and sharp two-and-a-half finger pocket to the left of the pinch, followed by a big a dynamic move right to the jug. Useful beta if you’re 5-foot nothing like me!

If the Shoe Fits V8. Photo: Nick Fletcher

Next on the cards is a 5-day trip to the Grampians in two weeks where orange sandstone and Cave Man (Cave Girl version) awaits.

-Shay