Thursday, 15 March 2012

Moving on Up...

The psyche has been growing of late and it is a foreign and uncomfortable feeling. I didn't think the route climbing bug would bite me so strongly, but I have been obsessing over stupid things like weight, fitness and recovery. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to give up bouldering and become a born again pumper, but I have been enjoying climbing on a cord, against all better judgment that I may have once possessed. I'm still pitifully shit on the steep stuff, I get lost, bored and tired of doing easy moves. I want to do hard moves, over a short distance, more like bouldering with a rope than pumping off my face. I have had a modicum of success in the last couple of weeks, having dispatched Middle Path 28 at Muline on Saturday, which was pleasant. I was pretty happy to knock this over, because it was my anti-style, being easy and pumpy. It felt much harder than other routes at the grade for sure. Straight afterwards I tried  Demon Flower, 30/31, which is amazing. Short and bouldery and not as steep, I was instantly psyched. I only had the gas for one burn, so figured out all the moves and hope to get back next weekend. I did take a classy fall too, wrapping the rope around my leg, burning the back of my calf and ending up hanging by my foot. Good times eh... Wouldn't happen with a crash pad.
Maddams hanging at a very busy Buandik campsite

Anyway, I digress. Had a day at the Cave of Little hands, which is a cool crag, near the classic bouldering mecca, Cave of Man Hands in the Southern Gramps. Had a blast at a couple of Joshy's routes, but didn't have much to give. Definitely keen for a rematch though, so will keep you updated. Was fun to catch up with Josh, Big Al and a rare treat to have the one and only Maddams in attendance for the weekend.
Finally, I have had a bit of a renaissance at the old skool crag of justice, Bundaleer. After being neglected by myself for many years, I have been back there a couple of times in the last few weeks. On Monday, I discovered an amazing route that I have walked past numerous times without even so much as a glance. The Castlereigh Line, 29 is a three bolt, powerful, cruxy classic, that sits onl;y 10 metres to the left of Manic Depressive. It follows a think seem, that barely has enough holds and is proper stout, with a bastard of a sting in the tail. It took a good 30 mins to work out the moves, before I roped up for the send. I was quite surprised when I found myself at the last move, setting up for the final deadpoint. I tickled the hold, but that was it. I couldn't even repeat the move again. I was mildly miffed, but actually quite chuffed that I would get a chance to have another bash on another occasion, so Sunday or Monday, here we come...

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