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| Mid Crux... Again |
It can be really draining trying a problem over and over. And trying a
single move for days on end can seem like a complete waste of time,
particularly if you have the attention span of a goldfish, like me. Now,
what was I saying? Oh yeah...I
spied this beautiful prow about four months ago, but didn't even wander
up to have a proper look at it until a couple of weeks later. I was
immediately blown away by how perfect the rock was and how difficult
each individual move would be. Initially, I was only able to do three of
the eleven moves, but could conceive doing all but one of them.
I
have done of lot of new problems this year and it has been incredible.
Most of them have taken only a session or two to knock over, apart from
the Taken, which due to its height proved more of an issue. But, I have
lacked something really hard to throw myself at. This prow would be
perfect. The crux is low to the ground, easily worked on without a
spotter and it is close to home, so after work sessions were a go.
I
have never spent that much time on a problem, nor a route for that
matter. Normally, either I do the moves quickly and then the problem or I
can't do a move or two and I move on. Not this time. I was pretty sure
that the crux would go down, but I would have to train for it. It wasn't
a power issue either I didn't think, but more of a body tension thing.
So, I went to work on the swiss ball, at the same time as trying the
problem a couple of times a week. Anytime that I sat down in front of
the tele I would do some sit ups or stabilizing exercises. The benefits
were pretty immediate. On an afternoon out with Chook, I managed to do
the problem from post-crux to the top. I was chuffed and had a renewed
sense of purpose. At times I was pretty dejected about the whole thing, I
had tried the crux move at least a hundred times and was making very
little progress. The crux is a weird move, a proper compression slap
from a good hold on your right, underneath the roof, to a single pad,
slightly off camber hold. You have a toe hook on the arete with your
left foot and a scummy heel toe with your right. Left hand open-handing
the arete. There was so much momentum, that every time I fell from the
hold I would end up about a meter downhill from where my left hand had
started.
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| Victors ledge. Matt and I laughing about my smooth top-out skills |
It was draining too. Maybe three or four adult tries and then another
ten weaker attempts and that would be it for the session. Day eight on
the problem and I still hadn't done the move, I was getting cabin fever
from sitting underneath the roof for so long, trying to envisage another
way of doing the move. The session before I had paused on the hold and
fallen directly underneath the holds, but that was the most progress I
had made in four weeks. Matt and Vanessa were up for the weekend, which
always boosts my psych. Since those guys moved here, I have been more
motivated than ever. Their enthusiasm for climbing and general good
humor is infectious, not to mention the fact that they know all the same
movie quotes as me... Anyways, Ness was on camera and Matt on spotting
duty. I got him to take a little weight through the move, trying to
train my body to remember how to catch the hold. After a couple of
attempts, with very little assistance, I did the move and then, after a
brief rest, I did it on my own. I was elated. I was so happy, I
considered just calling it a day there and then coming back to finish
the problem. Matt and Ness were having none of it, so I tried it from
the start. All of a sudden I was at the last move, but a bit of slippage
and I was off. Normally, I would be pretty angry, but I was so
surprised to get there that it didn't matter. Twice more I did the same
thing. So close, but I was smoked. Ah well, I guess I could come back
during the week with a spotter and get it done. Again, the guys talked
me into one last go. And thank fuck they did, as that was the money
shot. I cruised through the crux and slapped with renewed energy, until
only the difficult top out remained. I slapped blindly to the top and
missed the hold, but was so determined that I dropped my hand back and
went again, grovelled around and then swung my body back on to the slab
and rocked it out to the top. Red Mist was born. I gave it V12, but it
may be harder, we'll just have to wait and see... Thanks again to all
those who spotted me and provided moral support.
I
have done of lot of new problems this year and it has been incredible.
Most of them have taken only a session or two to knock over, apart from
the Taken, which due to its height proved more of an issue. But, I have
lacked something really hard to throw myself at. This prow would be
perfect. The crux is low to the ground, easily worked on without a
spotter and it is close to home, so after work sessions were a go.
I
have never spent that much time on a problem, nor a route for that
matter. Normally, either I do the moves quickly and then the problem or I
can't do a move or two and I move on. Not this time. I was pretty sure
that the crux would go down, but I would have to train for it. It wasn't
a power issue either I didn't think, but more of a body tension thing.
So, I went to work on the swiss ball, at the same time as trying the
problem a couple of times a week. Anytime that I sat down in front of
the tele I would do some sit ups or stabilizing exercises. The benefits
were pretty immediate. On an afternoon out with Chook, I managed to do
the problem from post-crux to the top. I was chuffed and had a renewed
sense of purpose. At times I was pretty dejected about the whole thing, I
had tried the crux move at least a hundred times and was making very
little progress. The crux is a weird move, a proper compression slap
from a good hold on your right, underneath the roof, to a single pad,
slightly off camber hold. You have a toe hook on the arete with your
left foot and a scummy heel toe with your right. Left hand open-handing
the arete. There was so much momentum, that every time I fell from the
hold I would end up about a meter downhill from where my left hand had
started. 
