The Grammar of Climbing

When I was first drafting this post in my head I wanted to use the term "a _____ of blocs" but realised that there is no collective noun for boulder problems (nor climbers for that matter). Collective nouns are mainly old-fashioned quirks of English little used these days, a gaggle of geese being the classic example and a parliament of owls or an ostentation of peacocks being other example that only seem to come up in pub trivia. Perhaps this is a topic worthy of considerable online discussion, as is a popular pastime of the modern climber, and to kick off the discussion I propose the terms "a crush of boulder problems" and "a stink of climbers".

So what started out as the long hoped for winter of doing every problem in the Sydney basin could more aptly be described as the winter of mysterious ailments, including a suspected spider bite that got a bit out of hand. While illness is usually not seen as a good thing, its humbling effect seems to bring the important things in life back into focus and makes you appreciate what you have. So although I couldn't always try the hardest problems, I rediscovered the unadulterated fun of climbing for its own sake without expectation, just enjoying being outside and moving over rock. And in the process I did a crush of lesser known but high quality boulders and had a great time doing it.

None-the-less, I neglected to fall off some none-too-easy boulders in recent weeks including Swoosh down at the Villas. This is quite a journey of over 20 moves with a burly butt-scraping start, a foot-first crux and a bulgy highball top out. I've certainly done routes that were shorter than this, and as at route it probably wouldn't be far off 32. Weirdly, when I actually did it I had no intention of doing so, I was just trying to get some linkage on the first section, but by accident I somehow ended up at the top. Luckily Sharik was there and could abandon his child for long enough to spot me as I sketched my way over the final bulge.

On the crux moves of Swoosh, V11 (32?)

I also did Fight Club at the Den the other day. Although this crag doesn't get much attention, it has some of the better rock in Sydney. The week before doing it, I went to try it one afternoon and as I did a u-turn to park I got pulled over by the police. It is illegal to do a u-turn at any set of traffic lights in NSW apparently, as the good constable informed me. This put a slight (and expensive) dampener on my session, but I got the moves worked out at least. The following week I did a legal u-turn on a side street and in between cups of tea and filling in the cross-word, managed to string the moves together from bottom to top in a climbing-like fashion as illustrated below.

Working on the winter tan on Fight Club, V10

So it seems that lately I have quite a gaggle of lessons: to have patience in the face of set-backs, that success sometimes comes when you least expect it, and that breaking road rules can be expensive.

Vitality

Getting my clean on...

Relocation, V9, FA, gotta love when a plan comes together

Chook, trying Eyes Wide Shut, V9

FA, The Abyss, Psyched

Ah, but what a lovely sight the sun is. Haven't seen it for a while here in Moyston. We have had plenty of rain and then some. The fields are lush, lambs are appearing all over the place and the land has a renewed sense of purpose and vitality about it. And I am glad to get on board and drain some of that energy. After what has felt like a long wet winter, low on motivation, I have emerged, finally finding my mojo again. It's so great to be able to get amongst it again. So, here are a couple of pics from the last week or two...

There's no such thing as bad weather there's just bad clothing

A good friend told me this about twenty years ago and its a mantra I've lived by ever since. So when I woke up to a rainy day where heading to the coffee shop for a brew seemed like the only thing to do, I was psyched to make the most of my day off work. Armed with my awesome Outdoor Research jacket and pants and my super cool new Asolo Goretex lined boots I was dry, toasty and ready for any weather the day could throw at me. It was grey and misty, poured rain and sometimes the clouds cleared so I could peak a look at some new cliffs too.

Its still a good 2 months until I can pull back on, but my shoulder rehab is coming along really well. I'm now doing lots of weights in the gym and the strength seems better almost everyday. After walking through the bush searching for new crags over the last few months and not finding anything, last week I decided it was time to head out on the rope and abseil down a line that I had spotted a few years ago. From what I had seen I thought it could be...ok, I hadn't been overly psyched by it, an arete up the right hand side of a greyish wall. But I love arete's and not being very steep it should be easy to bolt, it was worth a close up look.

Wow, that wasn't what I was expecting!! A steep orange wall was hiding around the corner,  I was pumped. I've only seen the top third of the wall as I travelled light and only had half a dozen bolts and they didn't keep me into the wall for very long. Now I have something to be psyched for, it's not going to be the quick rap down, bang in a few bolts and done job that I was thinking. Its my new mini expedition, over the next few months i'll work away at establishing the line. Doing small chunks at a time as not to over-do my shoulder. A rap station will also be needed for what should be about 3 pitches of fun!!

So with the rains, it was the perfect day to ferry some loads, now I have 140 meters of rope and a heap of hardware safely hidden in dry bags waiting for my next day out.

It's great to hang on a rope and get some air under the feet again and have that feeling that i'll be back in the game again soon!

Andy

Squamished

It was promised. I didn't really believe that it would happen, but the rain came and it seems like it wants to stay. I am sitting in the Squamish Adventure Centre, drinking great coffee, looking out on the Chief through 10 foot glass windows and watching the rain come down. There will be no action today. But, to be fair, a second rest day is probably not the worst thing that has ever happened. I climbed my first four and was destroyed. We visited Vancouver yesterday, ate yum cha, watched some Wimbledon action and cruised, but I'm still a little blasted, so happy to work on my caffeine addiction, a task to which I have shown rare dedication.

The view from my van in the morning.

Big Chicken, V10 

Anubis, V7

So, the first days of my trip have been amazing and I am absolutely loving Canada. Such a stunning country; rugged, primal and untouched beauty everywhere. The people are pretty great as well, many of whom share an Australian sense of humour with a few little extra quirks thrown in for good measure. A certain camaraderie and confidence that encourages the flagrant use of high-fives, outrageous positive-reinforcement of the most benign behaviour, but mostly just general good-naturedness that is hard to fault.
Oh, and the climbing is pretty awesome also. Four days of climbing in a row, did seem like it might be a little excessive, but it all turned out ok, especially since I was out with some great people. I hadn't seen Aimee and Reagan in six years, so kicking round the forest with them was a treat. They are great fun and always the best of company, really can't believe I have waited this long to visit them. But, as it always is with great friends, it seems like it was just yesterday that we were hanging out in the Gramps, fighting off heat exposure and plagues of flies. Ah, the memories...

Anyway, I digress, the guidebook contains a list of the 'top 100' problems in the forest as well, so trying to tick off as many of these as possible is a nice little mission to have as well. Over the last couple of days I've managed, Resurrection V9, a super classic highball with some nice long moves, Big Chicken, V10, (Video) Grampians style pulls between good holds on a steep wall and a heap of other moderates. Now it's just down to waiting for the weather to improve and fighting off the caffeine shakes...

Squamish

Mind Bender V7

The Salad Shooter V10

Defender of the Faith V9

Well, after a couple of 10 hour flights and a layover in the smog capital of the world, Shanghai, I arrived in Vancouver. Gordo, aka the Gord, totally hooked me up, collected me from the airport, sorted me out with a van for my stay and delivered me straight to the blocs, well almost, we had to stop for coffee. Feeling a little west, due to the substantial time difference I decided to start off with an easy day and just get my eye in. This lasted for about ten minutes before I was dragged up to check out Mantra V8. After doing this in a few goes, the team assembled and we worked our way through the boulders, a throng of tiny specs against the imposing and impassive Chief, as it

loomed over us. What an amazing day. I did about 20 problems and one of every grade between V0-V10. A pretty decent start to the trip, though I did wake up feeling a little worked. I slept like a hero after the days exertions, a straight ten hour shift, uninterrupted. Bam!! A quick coffee and it was out to the blocs again with Dave Pearson, ex-pat ozzie, living large in Squamish. We had a great time, doing an extensive circuit through the forest, before he begged off for the day, while I had a walk around and checked out some potential projects. The place is awesome, no doubt and there are countless problems. After a scope around, I met up with an American couple and went over to try an absolutely stonker problem, called Defender of the Faith, V9, though it felt more like 10 or 11. It took a few goes to knock it over and is easily the best problem I've done so far. Slopey crimps, lots of tension and an all out chuck for the top. Perfect. Just hanging out waiting to catch up with my old buddies, Reagan and Aimee now. Can't wait to see them, it's been years and should be a fantastic reunion. Anyway, will check in again soon.

Nati Files

Hey Guys,

It's been just over a month since I moved to Natimuk and I am loving it more and more. The focus of the 2 month trial: improve the work/climbing/life balance, and consider a permanent move. So far so good.

Living in the centre of Victorian rockclimbing (it IS the smelting pot you are all picturing) would surely mean I have a load of cool beta to spray about the routes I've done. Hmm not so much. The first couple of weeks saw me getting used to the change of pace, a big change indeed. It is a slower more relaxed lifestyle and I think my new flanny shirt is helping with the adjustment. Unlike a roadtrip, I am still working full time and getting home after dark. We got a hangboard up pretty quickly, and have since got a woody up and running in the last week or so.

So what have I done? Well I've been getting out for a boulder for a couple hours before night shift, not much ticked, but some good progress on some old projects of mine. I've also been out bolting some news routes. I ticked one of these the other day, Exile On Main Street, 26. Not a hard one by any means, but a fun outing and hopefully the 'carrot-on-the-stick' enticing belayers up to The Plaza Strip, where I have another project equipped and waiting. Short and sharp sessions have been the go of late and haven't spent much time on anything. Recently completed Checkmate and The Overtaker, both 29 in a couple of shots, and finished off Naughty Tickle Town, 28. Although this one stumped me at the last move a couple of times, reminencent of when I blew the same moves at the top of Academia before doing it.....TWICE! What a muppet.

So plans for next few weeks up in Natimuk. Well, try my roof project at the Plaza Strip, and try to get some fitness up for a sojourn to Nowra in July.

Here are some photos of the last month, not all climbing sorry.

Final moves of Checkmate, 29

Have had better skin.

Horsham from top of Mt. Stapylton

The Goat Pen - our new wall.

Peace out

- Grosey

Thursdays

Back in February this year I started a new job which, for the first time in a few years, is part time: I have Thursdays off. To start with, during the Sydney monsoon season, my Thursdays were generally taken up with surfing, yoga and working my way through the recipes of the Country Women's Association cook book (the ginger crisp is a winner). As the season has steadily changed I have more and more been venturing out to the boulders, including checking out some lesser known locales in the depths of Sutherland Shire. One of these is a spot called Abbott's Road, and in true Shire style there are only a handful of problems but one of them is a stonking roof line. I think it's a problem of Jumpin' Joe's called Crankshaft. On my first Thursday there I though I might do it in a session, but it took another two Thursdays before I actually did it (or at least, did what I thought was it). It is a lengthy number requiring three different camera angles to fit it all in (see below) and is a veritable polka of heel and toe maneuvers.

Anyway here's a little vid for you to watch when you're supposed to be doing something else. Enjoy.

Scoots



Crankshaft from Scootatronics on Vimeo.