La Cuerda

Underclinging through the 8th dimension

Well Easter has come and gone and it's back to the grindstone this week, but what a fabulous break it was. Scootsy came to visit for a week and the old partnership was back to its best in no time. Random calculations, epic table tennis matches and a spot of drinking seemed to be the norm for the trip. Oh, and I almost forgot, a little bouldering thrown in for good measure. We visited a few new areas, including Bundaleer and a place called Wallaby Rocks. Both good in their own way, but neither enough to sustain a proper Weill style assault, that is, returning week after week until all of the good lines are done. We did manage to eek out some lovely first ascents, especially the horizontal fridge slapping gem, Kick Ass, named in honour of the film that we had watched the night before. Classic, by the way. I added a sweet problem up a classic feature at Bundaleer, Underclinging through the eighth dimension, V10ish, starts with a pair of low undercuts and involves a couple of powerful slaps with the left hand before catching a wild tag with the right hand off a smeary footer. Good line, sandy crag, probably not a must visit.

Kick Ass

We had a day at the newly famous Cave of Man Hands where Scoots managed the second ascent of Dos Manos. A good effort by the number crunching desk jockey I must admit. I was worried that he was going to find some easy way to do all of my problems, but thankfully there was to be no ruining of Sound of One Man Hand Clapping. The cut loose move kept the lad honest, especially after he proclaimed that he had it sorted...

Scootsy on a new V7 at Wallaby Rocks

We managed a visit to Nati on Easter Saturday in time to catch Goatfest. I had entered a video that I had shot and edited on a whim. I had no real expectations, which was lucky, because we ended up not being able to get in, instead passing most of the fest in the pub, getting gently pickled. A message alerted us to the fact that the films were done and it was time to head back to catch up with some friends, but as we entered they were announcing the winners. I was absolutely shocked to hear my name called out, Dead Heat had taken out the Judges award and the Audience award. Next thing I knew I was up on stage receiving an award and being asked to make a speech. Now, all who know me, know that I love to be the centre of attention and having two hundred people hanging on every word I say is like nirvana for me. Unfortunately, the days climbing and a dozen beers put paid to any Ricky Gervais style acceptance speech. I was almost speechless and have been kicking myself ever since. What if I said...


So, anyway, I got to do a heap of bouldering but also continued on with some corded work as well. I had two days down south to finish up my break and managed to actually tick a couple of things. I did Demon Flower at Muline, 30, and almost did Wild Orchid, also 30 on the same day, falling on the last move, but this will definitely go down next visit. I also did Chasing the Shadow at the Gallery, 27. Not a super hard route, but one that I had tried earlier this season, failing on the final section. Clearly my fitness is improving, as I was able to shake out where I fell previously. I was unaccountably chuffed with this send, but safe to say, climbing on a rope has been loads of fun, not something I have done much of in the last few years.

Down, But Not Out!!!

It's not the post that I was hoping to write and it's certainly not the way I was hoping to spend the season. The weather looked so good in Spain and I was a click of the mouse away from booking a flight, instead I booked in with the surgeon for some repairs on my shoulder that just couldn't wait any longer.

Relaxing in my hospital bed just after my opp

Surgeries can never come with a 100% guarantee so I feel quite lucky to have "Rob Standen" from Penrith Sports Physio on my side. Rob has been looking after me for longer than I can remember and he put me in contact with a great sports doctor, who then got me in contact an excellent shoulder surgeon who looks after a lot of professional and olympic athletes. This sort of support is something that I really appreciate and could not put a price on as it makes me feel completely relaxed and confident that I was in the best possible hands.

After spending too much time inside and watching lots of climbing DVD's (The Real Thing many times), I just had to walk down to the local crag to look at and touch real rock. Thats what I call "Therapy"!

After what I could only describe as the best possible hospital stay and a week or so of recovery at home, things are feeling good. It's a long long way back, there won't be any climbing for at least 6 months and quite possibly longer. But it's not the end of the world, a few months and a few thousand Theraband exercises and i'll be back before you know it!


Andy

Getting back to business....

Autumn is my favourite time of the year because it marks the start of the Sydney bouldering season. Thankfully, the rain has stopped and it’s time to hit the blocs! I’m especially excited because it’s been four months since I’ve been out on rock. You see, the past two summers have been written off by wrist injuries, the right was the first to go in 2010, closely followed by the left one last year. In retrospect, the two-month forced rest each year has been a blessing in disguise. The time off has allowed my body and mind to recuperate, ready for more punishment come winter.

This accidental strategy seems to be working. Last year turned out to be my best bouldering season to date. I sent my hardest problem so far, Steve Austin (V10) at Sissy Crag, along with a host of other great problems in Sydney and the Grampians including String ‘em Up (V9), Black Magic (V8), Butthole Surfer (V9) and Cardigan Street Massacre (V7), just to name a few.

Flying high on Butthole Surfer. Photo: D.Alexander

Now, the 2012 season is upon us and it’s off to a good start. In the past three weeks I’ve completed three Frontline problems on my hit list. The first is the short and thuggy problem Who Killed the Kennedys (V6), dispatched thanks to my friend Lisa’s funky beta, next was the short and awkward Little Budda (V5) that has eluded me until recently, and finally, the ever popular If the Shoe Fits (V8), using the Christina Bedard method. It involves using the small and sharp two-and-a-half finger pocket to the left of the pinch, followed by a big a dynamic move right to the jug. Useful beta if you’re 5-foot nothing like me!

If the Shoe Fits V8. Photo: Nick Fletcher

Next on the cards is a 5-day trip to the Grampians in two weeks where orange sandstone and Cave Man (Cave Girl version) awaits.

-Shay

Old is New (i'm not a hipster)

G'day there,

I'd just like to start my first post here with a thanks to Expedition Equipment. I'm stoked to be part of the team and hope I can bring something to the table....be it lycra bodysuits, mad background music or at the very least some videos slash photos.

For past few years I've been writing a news/blog bizwhack with some of my best mates over at www.captainsofcrushaustralia.blogspot.com . This of course will continue to be at the forefront of Victorian climbing news, news that involves a select group of individuals with passwords to the account.
If you are unintiated in the ways of the captains blog, then I'll quickly fill you in about my past 8 months.

Went to Rocklands....had a blast....ruptured A4 pulley.....got drunk....NYE at Mt Arapiles......Tassie Trip.....Easter '12. That's about it. (click above link for videos from these events :p )

So as for now and a reference to the post title;

Working as a Paramedic is fun, tiring, a pain in the arse, rewarding and challenging all at the same time. We have some great holidays and work a 2 days/2 nights on and 4 days off roster (generally). This sounds good, however living in Australia's capital for coffee and the 'Weekend Warrior', leaves me walking aimlessly around the streets of Fitzroy looking for belayers on a Wednesday morning. So big plans are taking shape, mainly looking at moving up to Natimuk and working in Horsham, so that my days off are more productive. This idea has also been encouraged by several weekends away climbing at Mt Arapiles, and at the moment I'm very excited at the thought of climbing 4 days a week on rock.

Mt Arapiles; the first place most Victorians realise that gym climbing is just that. I started climbing out there in 2002, leading The Bard, 12 on my second day. Golden fun. Start of the 2012 saw me take a young lass out there to repeat it. It was just as scary, and just as fun. Having spent that last 9 or so years climbing the odd weekend at the Grampians has got me stronger, but not much better on the sometimes slick, vertical, bulgy world that is the Mount. Recently I decided that I would try to build a base of Mt Arapiles routes. Doing 10 of a grade then moving on, so as to really learn how to climb there again. For me time and geography is crucial. Trying to redpoint something at or beyond your limit with a 10 weekend a year game plan is bogus. So all that said, the move to Nati will if all goes to plan make me a more well rounded climber. Of course Grampians kicks arse and I have big plans for down there too.

Getting Lost on the Bard - only kidding

I'll fit right in with the Natimuk locals

Anyway, this weekend just gone was Easter. I had to work some of it, and party another, so had two days to climb. I decided to revisit some classics, and some routes I'd tried some weekend years ago. The weather was awesome with some bitter cold wind.......the season has started for sure. Well I pulled on only a handful of times, but managed to climb Jet Lag and Wagalak both 29 without any dramas. I've also spied a new line that will have some shiny new bolts in it within the next week or so. So psyched.

 Wagalak, 29 - Mt Arapiles. Photo A. Robertson

So for the rest of 2012. Well I had planned to be back in Rocklands this winter, yet this will not be the case. Lack of money and the move to the country will put this one hold. Aside from my Mt Arapiles 10 routes then move on project, I'll be focusing on some of my bolted projects in the Grampians and heading to Nowra in July. There is also talk of heading to Switzerland with Simon and Co (thats his left and right biceps and his ego) to boulder in January.

Cool well until next time.

- Grosey

Awesome Autumn



Sunset last night in Moyston


The last couple of weeks have been great, the weather has been superb and the company excellent. I have been milking daylight savings for all its sunny, glorious worth before it slinks off down into a dingy cave for the winter hibernation. I have never been particularly bothered about the clocks going back, because it heralds the true beginning of everyone's favourite season: bouldering season, but this year is different. It means the cessation of long evenings at Bundaleer, followed by delicious curry in Halls Gap, it means no more trad sessions at the watchtower, arriving home just in time for bed and I will miss it. So until October, I bid you adieu sir.
Pending depression aside, there has been plenty happening and, of course, holidays start on Friday, so I will attempt to optimize the climbing to work around the house ratio and smash as many boulders in as possible. Scoots is coming down to join the fray and Big Al is arriving early, so it should be fantastic.
Last week I managed to pull a nice arvo session with Chris at Bundaleer. We moseyed up to the cliff post school and set about our business. For Chris, this was some heinous off width pile of chossy shit, that I swore black and blue that I would not go near. After belaying him, in total fear, I came to the sickening realisation that the anchors were miles away and would be no help to anyone trying to rap down and clean the route, so up I went. I even managed a couple of jams, in between filthy, sandy laybacks that is. What a horror show. Bon effort mate, you are a sick man, no doubt...

The Castlereigh Line, 29. About to do the handjam

For myself, it was the resumption of hostilities on the Castlereigh line (29). I wasn't sure how things were going to pan out, having come off the last move the week before. I was unable to do that move again off the rope and thought I may be in for a proper siege. Wrong, I did the move first go, then second go as I was putting the draws on. It felt pretty good, so I went for it from the ground. A couple of minutes later I found myself at the last move, gazing at the slot longingly, feet high, knee turned slightly in, launch. Bam, fingertips in the front of the slot, a quick re-set, match and then reach for the top. It's nice when a plan comes together. Classic route, the only detraction being the anchors are another 40 foot up a slab of doom, so I leapt off, happy to lave the E5 run out for trad days.
In no time, it was the weekend again and I was off to the South with big Al. We overindulged on Friday night and were both a little worse for wear on Saturday, so it was lucky that we spent the whole weekend trudging around just about every crag imaginable looking for new problems. It was one of those frustrating occasions where we walked about 2hours for every problem we climbed. Not much of a return that. What we did find was really good, but nevertheless it was a heartbreaker. Thanks Al, I promise we'll find something next week...

Big Al on Roll Over and Die, V7

Howling with the Wolves, V9**

Somehow looking like I know what I am doing,
however far from the truth that may be.

Just to lighten the load on Monday, it was time for my sheep to be sheared. I am not sure if anyone remembers my last encounter with this chore, but safe to say that I have not improved. One of the poor things looks like DeNiro from Taxi Driver and another was lucky to escape with any of its skin intact. Thanks Ross and Gary for all your help and big respect out to any shearers. Brutal job.


Gary and Ross, showing the punter how it's really done.

Moving on Up...

The psyche has been growing of late and it is a foreign and uncomfortable feeling. I didn't think the route climbing bug would bite me so strongly, but I have been obsessing over stupid things like weight, fitness and recovery. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to give up bouldering and become a born again pumper, but I have been enjoying climbing on a cord, against all better judgment that I may have once possessed. I'm still pitifully shit on the steep stuff, I get lost, bored and tired of doing easy moves. I want to do hard moves, over a short distance, more like bouldering with a rope than pumping off my face. I have had a modicum of success in the last couple of weeks, having dispatched Middle Path 28 at Muline on Saturday, which was pleasant. I was pretty happy to knock this over, because it was my anti-style, being easy and pumpy. It felt much harder than other routes at the grade for sure. Straight afterwards I tried  Demon Flower, 30/31, which is amazing. Short and bouldery and not as steep, I was instantly psyched. I only had the gas for one burn, so figured out all the moves and hope to get back next weekend. I did take a classy fall too, wrapping the rope around my leg, burning the back of my calf and ending up hanging by my foot. Good times eh... Wouldn't happen with a crash pad.

Maddams hanging at a very busy Buandik campsite

Anyway, I digress. Had a day at the Cave of Little hands, which is a cool crag, near the classic bouldering mecca, Cave of Man Hands in the Southern Gramps. Had a blast at a couple of Joshy's routes, but didn't have much to give. Definitely keen for a rematch though, so will keep you updated. Was fun to catch up with Josh, Big Al and a rare treat to have the one and only Maddams in attendance for the weekend.
Finally, I have had a bit of a renaissance at the old skool crag of justice, Bundaleer. After being neglected by myself for many years, I have been back there a couple of times in the last few weeks. On Monday, I discovered an amazing route that I have walked past numerous times without even so much as a glance. The Castlereigh Line, 29 is a three bolt, powerful, cruxy classic, that sits onl;y 10 metres to the left of Manic Depressive. It follows a think seem, that barely has enough holds and is proper stout, with a bastard of a sting in the tail. It took a good 30 mins to work out the moves, before I roped up for the send. I was quite surprised when I found myself at the last move, setting up for the final deadpoint. I tickled the hold, but that was it. I couldn't even repeat the move again. I was mildly miffed, but actually quite chuffed that I would get a chance to have another bash on another occasion, so Sunday or Monday, here we come...

Knowledge is Power, Ignorance is Bliss

After reading the report I got from my MRI I've had these two phrases running through my head. According to the report I should be put out to pasture but according to how my body feels it really isn't that bad. I've decided to listen more to the second one and listen to my body, I'm doing heaps of rehab and strengthening exercises and have gotten back to some lighter non dynamic climbing.

With a brake in the rainy weather that has been belting the mountains I headed off in the search of new rock. Fate would have it that when I went to rap a line that I intended on bolting that it had been bolted the day before by Mike Law. So after a bit of scrub bashing I discovered a cool little stand alone wall at Sublime Point and not far from the walk in track for the areas other crags. Mike had really done me a favour in bolting the other line as this wall ended up being a great find.

Over two days I bolted 4 routes, about 10 to 12 meters in length and slightly overhanging on really good quality rock. The wall presented a great selection of features and holds that produces great moves, that were all in the grade range that I was looking for at the moment.

 The sequence to "Knowledge is power"
















"There's a Tear in there 21" "Knowledge is power 22" and "Ignorance is Bliss 23" were all named after my shoulder and "Rain Hail and Shine 22" was named after the weather I had while bolting one day. Really, I got hammered by hail in a sudden storm!!

A rare moment of perfect weather